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Super Stardestroyer Executor

Super Destroyer stellaire Executor : détail.

This super stardestroyer model lied in my to-do boxes since 15 years. Every modeler does that : buying more and more models, great deals, we will make them very soon, for dure. As soon as we get the time to, I start tomorrow max. If not tomorow, this week-end, no problem.

The life cycle of a modeler is like :

  • birth
  • first model given for the 10th birthday
  • first model assembled (no paintjob)
  • second model bought
  • assembly of the second model with paintjob (would have been better without)
  • 247 next models bought
  • assembly of the 3rd model (good job)
  • beginning of the 4th model assembly
  • death

For once, I ended a model. Let’s go for the assembly revue of the super stardestroyer Executor.

First, the assembly

You must know this is a “garage-kit”. Long before the rise of the empire 3D printers, non-professional modelers tinkered their models from various parts and molded them in their garage. That’s the origin of “garage kits”. That was in 2010, I was there Gandalf, you couldn’t imagine.

So, does this Korbanth Executor worth something ? There are pros and cons.

Mis en place (à blanc) d'un super destroyer stellaire
The two small Stardestroyer F-Toys bought at the same time

Parts are accurate but I’ll add some details, of course. Many parts can be easily odentified : jerricans, boat parts… Just as the fiming model by the way. proportions are good and it’s the only thing I need because it usually can’t be fixed if not.

One disappointment : the sides of the vessel, just a recast of the Revell Venator.

Les tranches de l'Executor sont un recast du Venator Revell

Iknow the model well, I already bouilt two of them and I can’t use those things just like that. I’ll have to remake.

By the way, I lied in the title, I can’t assemble just know. First : the lightup.

Super stardestroyer Executor lightup

Three options :

  • optical fiber, as usual
  • burry some LEDs in the superstructure to get indirect lightup
  • scroll in Instagram for hours like everyone and do nothing

I hesitate for a long time (14 years in fact) but optical fiber didn’t come to be the write choice for many reasons. First is technical, the resin parts are filled, I would have to hollow them to pass the fibers. The resin dust is carcinogenic, I would have died long before the end of the assembly. Teh second is matematical: with this 1:20 000 scale, a 0.3mm optical fiber (smallest ones) figure 6m in diameter portholes and I would need thousands to stay realistic.

That’s the reason I burried many CMS LEDs into the structure to get this indirect lightup wich simulates the glow of thousands of portholes. Here is the method:

1-Positionning some LEDs on evrey module

Using the Dremel, small holes are digged. Small LEds CMS are fitted in.

Perçage des pièces du super destroyer stellaire pour les LEDs
Perçage de la carlingue.

2 – Frilling the hull

Wires are fed through the holes and then recovered them into the ship’s body.

3 – Welding the wires

I put two steel rods along the edges od the vessel, one for the “plus” and the second for the ?

(…)

Minus ! Nobody’s listenning ! Yet that was easy!

Electrification du super destroyer stellaire Executor

The satisfying result:

The thrusters lightup is not very difficult, I did that thousands of time. Well maybe not thousands but hundreds.

Détailling

As noted above:

Some details are being added

Petersteven

And yes, I’m quotting myself, if you want the job done, you’d better do it yourself. The kit’s modules are a little… “linear”. Compared to the filming model, we find the linear structure but the modules are much messier.

The job is simple: add many many (many) tiny details everwhere. Small model parts, 3D printed garbage, plastic card small parts gathered here and there. Easy: at this scale, realism isn’t a really challenge.

Super détaillage de la structure.

Paintjob on the super stardestroyer Executor

Othing difficult here. The fliming model seems to have been dipped into the can of grey paint. The rendering has to be very plain. Not entirely otherwise it would be boring but still…

Only three steps:

  • silver-chrome underlayer as usual
  • dark grey pre-shadding: many small forward-facing marks.
  • tint melting with the main grey-blue color.

The main color is a Tamiya blending: 80% white XF-1, 10% medium blue FF-18 and 10% skygrey XF-19

The result:

Détail de la surface du superdestroyer stellaire Executor

Display stand and Stardestroyers

At last, a pretty model must have a pretty stand. My friend Dmonique Mallerte from Héritiers de la Force cut an imperial emblem with his laser. Thanks to him.

On the stand, 3 imperial stardestroyer (smaller than this one). They are from F-Toys, scaled closely to the Executor (just a little bit too long but that’s ok).

First exhibition for the super stardestroyer Executor.

I showed the model for the very first time during Migennes 2026 but I intend to show it again during Cusset Generations Star Wars 2026 and amnu other conventions like Thonon-les Bains. I hope I’ll see many of you there.

Posted on 6 March 2026 by petersteven in

Bandai B-Wing Starfighter

Just this once, a single little modelkit. No diorama, no theatrical production, no complicated decor. just a little building “out of the box” of a Bandai B-Wing.

One says that it is no longer usefull to write texts by ourselves. There are many alogorithmes doing this in no time. Let’s go:

“Good morning dear ChatGPT, can you please write a text describing the assembly of a Bandai B-Wing ?”

(you must be polite with thos things in anticipation of the time they will hold us in slavery).

“Assembly of the Bandai B-Wing model begins with the cockpit, paying particular attention to the details of the pilot and control system. The rotating gyroscopic mechanism is then integrated, allowing the cockpit to pivot around the ship. The asymmetrical wings are assembled in several sections, each with cannons and thin radiators that must be positioned with precision. The engines, detailed with nozzles and ventilation elements, fit together smoothly. Each part is easily attached using the snap-fit system, eliminating the need for glue. Adjustments are essential to ensure proper articulation of the wings and engines. To perfect the look, decals and weathering effects can be added, such as a light dry brush or dirt effects. The end result is an accurate 1/72 scale model, faithful to the Star Wars universe.”

(…)

(…)

Well, maybe I’m going to continue to write my own texts…

The cockpit

I always begin a model assembly with the cockpit interior. That usually means many hours in going into details but in this model, no needs. The detail level offered by Bandai is quite remarquable.

I just designed the cockpit ligthup and paintjob. Not so bad, is it ?

Featuring : optical fibers and LEDs. The only difficulty was to place the LED in the ship’s neck. Unfortunately, it can no longer rotates so I glued it in its final position.

The thrusters

This unclassifiable starfighter has many unique features. One of them is the quadri-thruster. Bandai did here a great job by providing the mean to light them with only one LED with an optical fiber system.

The result is very satisfying although not much luminous :

The main assembly

Contrary to my previous assembly of a B-Wing, I didn’t have to build this model like a kebab. The model is smaller, hollow thux very light and everything holds together well enough.

After positionning the wires, the assembly is very easy, just follow instruction.

B-Wing Bandai paintjob

First, the gunmetal underlayer. I usually use two underlayer colors: gunmetal when I want a dirty ship, chrome-silver when I want it cleaner. This one is dirty.

Sous-couche gunmetal;

Then, the main color is applied, a very white grey (80% mat white / 20% skygrey) and then pre-shadded:

B-Wing Bandai: préombrage et pré-panelling.

Please note the yellow and red colored pannels. I often do that in order to diversify the tints of a plain model.

The next step is decisive: I need to melt all these layers in the main color. I apply a very diluted version of this main color with reduced pressur on the aero:

The number of melting passes controls the opacity level.

This model naturally took place in my “Sullust” diorama which features almost all the rebel ships during the battle of Endor.

Posted on 10 February 2026 by petersteven in

Flying DeLorean Mark II

DeLorean Eaglemoss mark 2 - vue avant, en vol

You already know all about my first post about the DeLorean by heart, here is the second one. This post is about the car evolution into the Flying DeLorean. Every big fan remembers the shock he experienced at the very end of the first Back to the Future when he saw the DeLorean taking off to travel to the future, 2015.

Roads ? Where we’re going, we don’t need roads.

Doc Emmett Brown

From the rolling DeLorean to the flying DeLorean

I had to find a trick to make this 11 kg model fly, mostly made of metal. Hang it on wires was not an option : the wires would have been too thick and bringing the electric power to the underbody of the car would have been too tricky.

I got the idea to build a stand monted on a single brass rod. The stand had to show a proper representation of the underbody seen in the movie :

Flying DeLorean - screenshot - from below

I couldn’t glue the underbody un der the car since I wanted it to feature the mark I DeLorean. The solution was to make the stand become the underbody as well.

Flying DeLorean mark 2, stand

The car is simply installed onto the stand, its weight serve as the glue. The stand is heavily detailed to feature the underbody seen in the movie. It is lighted and thus also electrified.

The current is brought to 4 connectors linked to the wheels when the car is upstairs. This is the main problem of the set-up : finding the connectors and connect them to the wheels.

The rod is just below the center of gravity of the car to avoid the car toppling. The joint is made with a huge amount of epoxy glue. In addition, the glue secures the electric wires.

The result, once the flying DeLorean in place :

DeLorean mark 2 - from below

The assembly of the wheels

The main modification is about the wheels inclination. Indeed, the vertical thrusters are inside the wheel’s hub and those have to tilt in flight.

The creators of the model from Eaglemoss anticpated th possibilty of tilting the wheels. The apparatus doing that is clever but unfortunately too far from the shooting model as you can see in the picture on the left. The wheels flap too low in relation too the underbody and the triangular metallic support is missing.

I had te redesign the apparatus. The main disadvantage is that I must totally unscrew each wheel (including the disc brake) to perform the transformation. Therefore I need 20 to 30 minutes to do it while I needed only a few seconds to do it with the original apparatus.

The next picture is a screenchot showing the tilt apparatus of the flying DeLorean :

We can easily see the triangular supports. Furthermoren the wheel are not as low as they are in the Eaglemoss model. Since I wanted to remake the all stuff, I decided to add the light inside the wheels to improve the rendering.

i bought a new 4-wheels bundle and made new supports for each one. Three DEL’s have been added, linked to a connector.

Flying DeLorean mark 2 - wheels

In order to position them, I attached some hooks (one for the aft wheels, two fir the rear ones) shown in the picture below.

DeLorean volante mark 2- roue

Then, the wheel are attached directly on the original metallic part, once the car is on its stand.

DeLorean Eaglemoss mark 2 - roue inclinée en vol

The fusion generator, Mr Fusion

The last huge improvement from the first episode’s model is the fusion generator, replacing the the 80’s nuclear reactor powered by plutonium.

DeLorean Eaglemoss mark 2 - Mr Fusion

The DeLorean designers made the Mr Fusion generator from a real 70’s electric coffee grinder for the purpose of the film. This device was already used in the first Alien movie in 1979.

No big deal with this one, only a screw concealing, the screws being too big for the scale. The holes where filled with putty and painted whit a gloss white paint.

Posted on 23 December 2020 by petersteven in

DeLorean Eaglemoss Mark I

DeLorean Eaglemoss - Rear view

I wanted to make a DeLorean for years. Possibilities were not infinite. There is an acceptable Aoshima kit (reviewed in french by my friend Yvan West Laurence here) but when I learnt three years ago the publication of an “easy to do it yourself kit” from Eaglemoss including only 458 issues at the special price of 15$99 each, I didn’t hesitate one second. So this article is about the Delorean Eaglemoss assembly and of course, the result.

Posted on 17 December 2019 by petersteven in